I dug out an older Kerry Low D with black plastic head, which I bought here locally some seven years ago. I never really got on with it, but thought it may be just my technique frustrating me. Now I try to make sense of this whistle, which can produce a nice tone.
But in the lower octave up to A (not B and C#) if I press a little more air in it starts to buzz, which can be quite loud too. And this buzz is pretty disharmonic and annoying.
Question is: what may be causing this buzz, and is there a way to fix it? If I play with extreme sensitivity to my air pressure, I can avoid it. But it is really hard, as the second octave needs a lot more air. The second octave plays fine. I just got buzzing transitions from first to second octave notes.
Look closely at the embouchure hole and the Labium ramp edge. If there are any “burrs” or excess plastic “fuzz”, clean it or shave it off with a razor knife. Rub the razor knife blade gently across the Labium edge a little to reduce its sharpness. I believe this will eliminate the Buzzing.
Some whistles just like to be played softly in the first octave and pushed hard in the second. It’s their personality. If you choose to spend much time with this whistle, you will do it automatically.
I think the labium edge is fine, not too sharp. But I am looking at the whole embouchure square. The top of the wind channel is very thin. I just put a small bluetack ridge right across, like a little wall opposing the sound edge. This seems to help, the buzzing does not come as easily.
This is certainly not a quiet whistle, and wants to be played with a lot of air. So any turbulence problems are enhanced.
The “lips” at points 4 & 5 (link below) of the windway exit must also have a rounded edge to help create a Von Karman Vortex Street oscillation. http://www.flute-a-bec.com/coupebo.jpg
If the “lips” are sharp, they can produce micro-eddies/turbulence. Also if a combination of sharp lips and labium are found, the airstream will be split by the labium edge but hesitate to form the Von Karman oscillations. (Most of the airstream must strike above the edge, or the Bernoulli siphon effect will be reduced and delay the Von Karman oscillations.) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernoulli_effect
I also have a Kerry low D. It’s has a brass body and an Overton style aluminum head. And when I play the fundamental note with little air, there is no buzzing. But when I push it a little, then the buzzing starts. And once I get past that medium push of air, then the buzzing stops. It’s a very strong player once I get past the buzzing in the low octave. And I get no buzzing in the second octave. So I think it’s a fault in the design of the head. I hope this helps. It’s not you. Carlos
I am certain now that it is the head design, but I am also quite sure that your whistle’s head is very different from mine. Mine is made of black plastic.
See here at amazon: Kerry Low D Whistle
I am still working on measures to lower the tendency to buzz.
A small ridge of bluetack on top of the windway, at the edge opposite the labia, seems to reduce it a bit.
I am still wondering how to accomplish reshaping of the windway a fraction, so the airstream hits the labia a tiny bit higher.
I am very grateful to Thomas-Hastay’s good advice. It gives me a better understanding.
I assure you it is not the head design. I have seen quite a few of these whistles - both with the black and blue plastic heads. I have not encountered one with the buzz you have noticed.
I have encountered this buzz in whistles of different makes and in different keys.
I would suggest one of 3 things -
look very closely at the windway exit (“lips”) - if you see any moulding marks, carefully smooth them. The culprit is more likely to be on the lower “lip”.
Look for burs inside the tube around the toneholes - these can cause buzzing.
Contact the maker and arrange an exchange or repair.
Personally, I would take option #3 - feedback to the maker can improve his/her quality control and benefit other whistlers as well as yourself - that yields the highest value result.
If you take option #1, then you risk ruining the whistle altogether - windway exit adjustments are probably the most sensitive on a whistle.
Another cause for buzzing is moisture collecting on the lower “lip” - the usual remedies for clogging will fix that.
