Hello,
Forgive me if this has been mentioned before, but are there differences between the brass bodied and nickel bodied whistles made by generation.
I was in a music shop today and it seems to me that the nickle bodied instruments seem to be a bit more playable, has anyone else noticed something similar.
It is strictly a matter of personal preference. I have good examples of both red and blue tops. Some might say the nickel bodies are more slippery. Some say the brass bodies are more trad sounding. There is a lot of mythology surrounding the differences. But … the green tops are the best.
Maybe someone will alert you when one is being auctioned on eBay.
Most Gens are fine right out of the box, some of them exceptionally so. When I teach classes, I usually supply green top Gens. My two favourite Generations are chewed bluetops popped on brass bodies in D and a Bb. I wouldn’t trade them for “improved” ones, I can say with confidence.
Really, what difference the color that goes into the mold?
Molds wear out and get outdated, flaws can be anticipated.
Quality controls use a small percent of a run.
Different colors make the question fun,
To toss another (fea) dog into the fight,
When it’s all said and done the answer isn’t black and white
It is sometimes shades of grey. (I sorta think it’s white that makes the day.)
I don’t know if there’s really much difference, but when I started playing in the 1970s all the good players I saw were playing the brass bodied Generations, usually with red tops, but occasionally with blue tops (the player had switched tops at some point).
I heard it said many times back then that the brass bodied Gens sounded better, more full, more round, that the nickel plating dulled the tone. Whether it was true or not, many players believed it.
Generations were the only D whistles available at that time. Green tops, tan tops, black tops, etc hadn’t come out, they were always either red or blue.
The really cool-looking whistles played by the veteran players then had all the lacquer worn off, label long gone, and tape or string binding the cracked head together.
Like this
One thing for sure, it’s much easier to remove the tops from the nickel-plated Gens! The lacquer on the brass ones seems to fuse with the glue and they’re the very devil to get off sometimes.
I bought a great-playing redtop Gen C and I could never get that top off! The boiling water thing till the plastic nearly melted and it was still fused onto the body.
Just throw them into a bigger tube, the force moves the head up so it won’t crack. But it will break anything that makes the head stick to the tube. It managed to release, without damage, the head of my first whistle, a red top E flat after refusing to budge for forty years.
The nickel/blue ones are the brighter ones but only by a small margin.