My bellows are wheexing their last.Can anyone point me to a specific leather type in the uk. I know several leather suppliers but want to know what type and weight of leather to buy since I am famous for buying first and researching when it doesn’t work. Would chap leather be ok? Seven ounce?
Thanks
Bob
What you want is “Full-Grain Leather”. This is the highest grade of leather. Only the least scarred or damaged hides can be used for full grained-leather. . .after the hair is removed you are looking at the animal’s epidermis. It hasn’t been sanded, skyved, or spray painted. You may see some scars or blemishes, but they should be extremely minor. Obviously you should plan your layout to avoid these blemishes. . .they’re just there to let you know it’s true Full-Grained leather.
Weight is up to you. Some people use 5 oz. leather, and double leather it by gluing an additional layer of softer leather to it, rough-to-rough. 7 oz. will be stiff and require you use some method to supple it. It will also be harder to source as full-grain. The Leo Rowsome bellows I saw while being re-leathered was doubled.
Lore say that at one time Dominion Leather of Canada supplied “Bag Pipe Leather” with some sort of whiz-bang surface treatment. They’re said to be out of business and the leather is said to be no longer available. I’d go with the best Full-Grained leather I could get.
Bob
I use deer tanned cow hide (5oz) from Tandy Leather, they have a web site and may ship world wide.
Available in Tan ,Sand or Black.
An entire side is about $100 cdn, this will make about 8 bellows/bags.
They also have every other weight, treatment and hide you can think of.
I used to live near Dominion leather in Montreal, but they have been gone for a long time.
Tim
If you buy leather sight unseen, you are borrowing trouble. It must pass the suck test.
Bob
If you buy leather sight unseen, you are borrowing trouble. It must pass the suck test.
an seanduine is absolutely right. Before purchase, apply the smooth side of the leather to the lips and suck. If it is porous you can tell. Try in different areas, particularly ones that seem suspect (thin, wrinkles, etc.). Without testing you are buying a pig in a poke, as the saying goes.
That said, I have had good luck with Tandy’s “Tanners Select Chap Side”, stock #9111-01. It is not cheap.
Nick Whitmer
For anyone that is buying from Tandy/ Leather Factory, keep an eye out for their periodic sales, and try and get their business discount. It makes a huge difference in price of goods there. The Tanners Select Chap Side was going from between $5.50 and $6.50 a square foot today (2/5/11) at the franchise in Albuquerque, depending on your discount status, which is the highest I’ve ever seen it priced at. On sale the same can be as low as $3 a square foot. Personally I’ve found a lessor leather can be used if you are willing to double gussett or seal the skin somehow.
I understand that everyone wants to save a buck or two, but given the small amount of material needed to make a bag or bellows, $5 or $6 a sqft is a small investment.
There used to be a leather shop nearby, I could take my templates down and pick out the best hide but he is gone so I have to shop by mail order.
I seal my bags and bellows.
They are not being sold, just for my own use.
Anyone try something wild like Elk, Moose ?
Tim
Oh, I should have explained. You (usually) have to buy a side at that price. A side is 40 - 50 square feet. You easily get into $200-$400 dollars. That works if you are making more than one bag, but is pricey for the one up. Occasionally, Leather Factory and Tandy have smaller pieces. For a single bag, perhaps vinyl is more economical. Or you might go in on a side of leather with your local club.
The elk hide available locally to me has not been right, due to the treatment process being used. There has been some excellent buffalo hide on occasion.
Years ago I hand-sewed a bag for my GHB from split moose hide. It turned out great.
I think an important requirement is that the leather is not too stretchy as your pumping efforts are then absorbed by the leather. To make it air glue some plastic sheeting to the inside of the leather with rubber contact glue.
RORY
I second that… I use Chap Side #9111-02. I’m not sure what the difference is between -01 and -02, may be the color. Seth
I have bellows with a double ply of chap leather, glued together. Works fine for me.
You should try S C Hall Leather they supply good firm (not too firm) hide, chrome tanned, 1.5mm is perfect for bellows and at that weight you don’t have to double skin the bellows. The hide is 100% airtight, I re-leather bellows and make studded and sewn bellows using this and it is easy to work with and lasts for years. A set I re-leathered almost twenty years ago and gets constant use is still working and looking good today.
Worth a thought.
I hope this is of some help.
Almost forgot to mention, you can but as little as half a hide (£2.75 per sg ft)