Does anyone know how to solve the problem of leaky leather on a bellows. I recently repaired the gusset, which was coming apart. Then I repaired the intake valve, which was dirty with hide dust and warped.
I put some soapy water on the leather bladder, and saw air bubbles forming when I inflated the bellows. After that I put this leather sealant made from beeswax (for boots and shoes) on the bellows, hoping that would season them. That didn’t work that well.
Is there any hope for this bellows? I just bought a new bellows off of ebay, but it is only partially put together. I was thinking about using the hardware from my dysfunctional bellows and using it on the new one.
Make sure you work the seasoning into the gusset with your hands after you pour seasoning into the bellows and then plug up the air outlet and apply pressure for a few minutes. I’d also remove the valve and use you thumb stop air from escaping there. The pressure will force the seasoning into the pours in the leather.
I’ve used bellows right away after seasoning. I use pure neatsfoot oil in lieu of the olive oil.
All finished. I am letting them sit a few hours. I heated everything before doing it. The mixture of beeswax and olive oil was seeping out of the leather in lots of different places.
I just saved at ton of money on bandaids for my elbow.
Cillian O’Briain makes GREAT bellows for just around US $100 or maybe $125 now. I use his and also a Brad Angus “old style” bellows, depending on my mood. I use my old worn out bellows for blowing leaves away from wild mushrooms. 'Tis the season.
Mark Hillmann made my bag and bellows with the elk cured cow hide. No leaks after 14 years.
However, I need to re-wrap the tenons on the suckers.
I use a mixture of the pipers wax they sell to GHB players. I mix that with beeswax over a double boiler to mix it together, then put a lump of that inside a fold of leather (suede side inside) on about a foot or two of linen thread.
That sticks the thread to the tenon for the start of the wind.
Then I wind the thread as evenly as possible until I get the tenon joint “just right” and they won’t move around on me while I am playing, but I can still move them to adjust the stability and tuning.