…I broke it! Yes, as much as I hate to admit it I broke my first whistle 
. I didn’t mean to so here’s what happened. The whistle in question is a Feadog Pro D. I wasn’t trying to make it tunable but was just trying to straighten out the mouthpiece. It was on just a little bit crooked. I just twisted it a little bit to line it up, so far no problem. A little while latter I noticed a hairline crack in the mouthpiece. It dosn’t seem to go all the way through and the whistle still seems to play okay(I can’t tell any difference at all) but it’s most definatley there. It starts at the bottom of the mouthpiece and goes straight up over the blade, picks back up after the hole and continues up to the edge where your mouth goes. I’m guessing there isn’t anything to do about this? I was thinking about getting a Hoover Whitecap, maybe this is a good time 
. Any advice?
Strom
Hi Strom,
I’m surprised the thing cracked all the way through the blade and windway!
The Feadog nickel pro D is supposed to already be tunable! They do not glue the heads on these ones. So it’s odd that you got this problem.
If you have only had it a short while, I’d be inclined to contact the vendor and ask if they’ll replace it - the crack might have been there from the start.
If the vendor won’t do that, try removing the head then run a little super-glue along the crack and clamp it lightly (use as little as possible), then you might need to lightly sand inside the head socket so that the tube isn’t so tight.
If all that repair stuff is not your thing - it’s the perfect time for a Hoover Whitecap or Blacktop! Mack does great work.
Well if it’s hairline crack such as the ones on about 3 of my whistles, it’d be a little hard to get glue in between without making the crack even worse…
As I said, I have about 3 whistles of the “Generation style” design, and all whistles play just fine even with such a crack going down the blade. One, a Walton C, one a Feadog D, and the other a Generation F. All those cracks were caused by not letting the fipple sit in hot water long enough, and me over torquing the headpiece trying to get it off prematurely. Maybe I’m lucky, but all 3 do not play any worse. If anything they play a little better because of the minor tweaking I do to them.
If it’s just a hairline, put a drop of super glue on it and it will wick right into the crack. It shouldn’t even need clamping.
Are you sure it’s cracked?
Most injection molded whistleheads have a visible “joining line” where the molten plastic has flowed up from the bottom and met in the middle along the top during the molding process. If a whistlehead does crack, it’s often along this line, but people do sometimes mistake the line itself for a crack.
Best wishes,
Jerry
I have a Clare I’ve been playing for years that has several cracks in the mouthpiece. I’d fix them (super glue, as Paul suggested), but it really sounds great as is and I don’t want to ruin it.
that really sucks, at least it wasnt a high end. i broke a Seetheart once like that. it was a horrible feeling.
Well I know the cracks on my 3 mentioned whistle heads are such, because they weren’t there before I started the tweaking process.
Know what…I broke my Sweetheart too…but the Sweets replaced it for me, free even. I swear that if they made whistles in every key I’d have to take out another mortgage to get them.
Hi Everybody,
Thanks for all the advice! After looking at it again this morning I’m pretty sure it’s a crack. I’m almost positive that it wasn’t there when I first got the whistle. I’ll go the superglue route and see how that goes. And maybe then I’ll get the Whitecap anyway(this is after all a great excuse).
Strom
I have two Feadog Pro Ds (baaaad case of WhOA) and they both have a hairline just like you describe. Both hairlines are a little wavy like cracks but are identical on the two whistles. I tried forcing one apart to see if it was a crack (See! There was a reason I got two!) and it isn’t a crack. I think they are mold stress lines. They aren’t mold lines where the two halves fit together but stress lines that develop in the plastic as it is sets up. The lines are very fine and I didn’t see them until I read your post and looked for them; even then, I had to get the light just right to see them.
I had some feadog pros that had stress lines like that. They both eventually split there.