What exactly does ‘cork to end length’ mean? Is this the distance from the centre of the embouchure hole to the bottom end of the cork, going back up the flute?
Also, what is '‘air length’? Is this the distance from the centre of the embouchure hole to the bottom end of the flute?
Also, I assume the hole position measurements are from the bottom end measure back up the flute to the hole centres?
Cork to end length is the distance between the Cork and the Bell end of the FLute, I’m guessing yes on the second question.
And yes the Hole positions are measured from the Bell End of the flute up towards the embouchore. The points given are to the center of the hole… Oh and a word to the wise drill the holes a little smalled than what twcalc or FLutomat tells you otherwise they will all be sharp…
Thanks for the help.
One answer worries me though. Cork to end length is a shorter measurement than air length, so the cork would be covering the embouchure hole (and in metric mode, it is a factor of 10 smaller - so I’m guessing that’s an error)
Here’s a theory, maybe the air length is an artificial figure that allows for the hole volumes when closed (due to wall thickness) and other factors. I guess the key to this is whether it’s the cork to end length that determines the base note, or is it the embouchure hole to end distance? If the former then, this kinda makes sense, but leaves the question, where to put the embouchure hole?
This is what I do when I make a flute (not that I make many)… Cut the length of tube long enough to ensure that it will reach the lowest note. Measure 2.5" down from one end, and drill the embouchure there… size depends on Key. I place the cork approx 1/2 of the Ebouchure hole’s size away. IF that produces a satisfactory tone then I tune the bell end from there… I hope that helps you, moving the cork closer to the embouchure will make the flute sharper but it could aslo diminish intonation, moving it further away will make the flutes tone more flat, but it will also change the BODY of the sound… Move it too close or too far and it won’t play at all.
when I make my whistles I do the preliminary voicing first while I construct the head, then I tune the bell end. I use the hole calculation programs only for placement, and to give me an approximate size… everything else is by ear. It may take a little bit longer, but the end result turns out better. The first whistle I built using what Flutomat gave me was not even close to being In tune (realy sharp) and it was barely playable… since then I do all the building stuff first, and then figure out where the holes should be.
Thanks again. I really do appreciate the advice.
It’s Friday night here, so let’s see what I get up to this weekend, but I think I’ll have learnt a lot, and maybe have another nice flute or whistle at the end.